The Alexander Brown Restaurant in Baltimore
I love recycling. The idea of taking something old and transforming it into something new excites me. The same goes for businesses that open in reclaimed buildings. Whether that’s a restaurant in an old farmhouse or a brewery housed in a former industrial factory. That’s why I was intrigued when my dad made reservations for dinner at The Alexander Brown Restaurant.
Situated on the corner of Baltimore and Calvert Streets, The Alexander Brown building was built in 1901. The historic building, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was the site of a bank owned by Alexander Brown & Sons, passed down for generations. In February 2019, the building transformed into the opulent Alexander Brown Restaurant. While the function of the space changed, the jaw-dropping architecture remained.
The Vibe
When you first walk in to The A.B., your eyes are immediately drawn to the towering marble columns, up to the gorgeous Tiffany-style dome skylight. Behind the hostess stand is a regal photo of Alexander Brown and his three sons. The friendly hostess greeted us, offered to take our coats and even gave us some background on the history of the building and its design. A trip to the downstairs bathroom takes you by the massive gold vault doors, reminding you that this is not your typical Baltimore restaurant.
The restaurant boasts two comfortable and stylish dining areas, complete with white tablecloth tables and plush banquettes to complement the fine dining menu. There was also a moderately sized bar in the front room of the restaurant with modern up-lighting. I could imagine Baltimore’s high society dining at The A.B. during the turn of the century, as well as today’s posh crowd looking for a night out.
While the prices at The A.B. break the bank for my typical dining budget, I was with my parents, meaning it was time to treat myself. The A.B. offers concise lunch and dinner menus, along with an extensive wine list and craft cocktails.
The Drinks
My parents ordered the bourbon-based Joyride and Parisian-style French 75, while I went with a glass of pinot noir. Later in the evening, our server Kevin talked my dad into trying The A.B.’s Old Fashioned. Despite my father’s initial hesitance (he doesn’t like a sweet Old Fashioned), he trusted Kevin’s judgement, ordered it and was raving about the classic bourbon cocktail by the end of the night.
The Food
The dinner menu features an array of cuisine influences from various cultures, including Asian, Italian, French and American Southern. There were even a few menu items that surprised me. I wouldn’t expect a high-end establishment like The A.B. to turn out fish tacos and cheeseburgers but I’m sure they had an elevated touch unique to the restaurant.
We started our meal with the Crab Beignets and Deviled Eggs. However, after we ordered, my dad expressed his desire to order the Mini Tacos, made with Asian-barbecue style beef.
The Crab Beignets are The A.B.’s answer to a Maryland crab cake. It can be incredibly daunting putting a crab cake on the menu of a restaurant in Maryland. Apparently, head chef Andrew Fontaine refused to put the local favorite on his menu, so he put a French twist on the ingredient creating a crab beignet.
The Crab Beignet is served atop a light, mildly zesty avocado crème fraiche with a conservative sprinkle of Old Bay. After traveling to New Orleans this past summer, I’ve been obsessed with beignets. The A.B.’s savory Crab Beignet reminded me of the crisp outside and fluffy inside of a beignet from Café du Monde.
Click here to read more about my trip to New Orleans.
While the Crab Beignets were a hit at the table, the Deviled Eggs weren’t so much. My parents were slightly intimidated by the addition of bowfin caviar to the eggs; I welcomed it. I also think they overlooked that a smoked salmon mousse is used with the egg yolk filling. While I loved the depth of flavor this added, my parents weren’t as big of fans.
For our entrees, my mom and dad ordered the Shrimp Bucatini and Ora King Salmon, respectively, while I selected the Skirt Steak.
My mom’s shrimp pasta had large grilled shrimp, swiss chard, kale, artichoke, tomato and lemon chili ricotta at its center. My father chose his salmon after Kevin suggested pairing the Asian-style dish with The A.B.’s crab fried rice. The Ora King Salmon rests in a shoyu ginger broth, dressed in cilantro and chilis, with crispy skin. My mom and I were both shocked that my dad ordered the salmon, seeing as it’s not a fish he eats often. He loved the dish’s broth with the lump crab fried rice.
I’d been on a red meat kick over the last month, so I was between ordering the Dry Aged Prime Rib and the Skirt Steak. The Skirt Steak was topped with pickled shallots and a chimichurri. I loved that The A.B.’s chimichurri leaned more on the acidic side than spicy. I wasn’t given a steak knife with my dish, and while I was going to ask for one, I was easily able to cut through my tender, medium-cooked steak with a butter knife.
While we were too full for dessert, I was incredibly tempted to order the Apple Napoleon, served with smoked ice cream and bourbon caramel. Once we asked for the check, Kevin brought us a seasonal cranberry macaron that was the perfect ending to our meal.
Overall, I enjoyed the atmosphere of The Alexander Brown Restaurant. While the dinner menu left me wanting a little more, the décor and friendly, attentive staff made it the total package. From the ambiance to the service, the restaurant provided an upscale feel without being stuffy. I’m eager to see how The A.B. continues to develop its seasonal menu going into its first full year of business.
The Alexander Brown Restaurant is located at 135 E. Baltimore Street, Baltimore.