The Bygone in Baltimore
Update (June 2020): In light of recent events, I will no longer be supporting any of Atlas Restaurant Group’s establishments. They selectively enforce a dress code that is focused on targeting Black diners. Until some serious changes are made, they will not see one more cent of my money.
On the 29th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel in Baltimore, jaw-dropping views and sophisticated dining await at The Bygone.
While packing for my most recent trip home, my parents asked me to pack a “nicer outfit.” Since I’m notorious for wearing pajamas out in public, I was eager to see what restaurant would require a dress code.
My parents and I arrived in the lobby of the Four Seasons Hotel in the Harbor East neighborhood. We found a private elevator with a man waiting to take us to the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. As soon as we stepped off the elevator, the large glass windows showcased a birds-eye view of the Inner Harbor. We were seated at a window-side table with panoramic views and immediately greeted by our server, Sarah Beth.
Sarah Beth and the rest of the waitstaff were dressed in burgundy velvet jackets—very fitting to the ‘20s and ‘30s era vibe the restaurant has. From the attire to the music, The Bygone strives to remind diners of the glamour of a bygone age. The dress code for guests, that is clearly laid out on the website, helps add to that theme and make the experience more fun. While I wasn’t dressed like a flapper, I would’ve if that’s what it meant to indulge in the amazing meal and innovative cocktails.
My father and I both ordered the Dobel Daisy, a tequila-based cocktail with pomegranate juice garnished with a pansy. My mom ordered the Ramos Gin Fizz. The entire cocktail menu is innovative to fit the theme and satisfy liquor lovers of all varieties. I was pleasantly surprised to see that all of the cocktails were under $20.
The Bygone’s menu starts with several chilled seafood, caviar and appetizer options. We decided to order two appetizers, the Cajun Fried Cauliflower and Deviled Eggs.
I can’t pass up deviled eggs if they’re on a menu. These were topped with bacon and shaved truffle. There was a subtle heat coming from the Espelette pepper in the smooth yolk mixture.
The Cajun Fried Cauliflower was a new experience. Sarah Beth told us this was a newer addition to the menu, added when the chef wanted another vegetarian option. Cauliflower is certainly not my favorite vegetable, but as I’ve said before, I’ll pretty much eat anything if it’s fried. The Cajun batter was deliciously spicy, but a quick dip in the creole mustard tamed the flame. Despite being fried, the appetizer wasn’t too heavy. The cauliflower wasn’t mushy and had a little bit of crunch to it.
On to the main course. While the three opulent lobster options, Maryland crab cakes, shrimp and grits and varying fish selections were incredibly enticing, I wanted to eat from the land rather than the sea. Try not to be shocked, but I ordered the prime rib.
The 14oz cut of meat came out perfectly pink, and when it arrived, I was offered freshly grated horseradish. The Creekstone Farms prime rib was crusted with a fantastic salt and coffee-like rub. I poured the light brisket jus over the top and sent my taste buds to heaven. I was so focused on my steak that I didn’t eat my cheesy potatoes gratin until the next day.
While we didn’t have room for dessert, we received three boxed chocolate truffles, filled with an airy chocolate ganache, with our leftovers.
The views alone make the visiting The Bygone an exceptional experience. The outstanding service, creative cocktails and superb cuisine make it an experience to have again and again.